Paris Fashion Week: Friday 30th September

Thank God the Maison Martin Margiela true aesthetic is back. I think when he left, and it was taken over, the company basically just lost the plot. They thought 'Margiela has always been a strange one, lets go mental'. And hence, recent collections have been unsatisfyingly odd. Having studied Margiela and designed based on his work in a project, I had to look at his collections in detail. This Spring/Summer 12 collections alludes to his true talent. It plays with androgyny and manipulating masculine shapes for the female form. It presents some really great pieces, true to his roots of deconstruction.

Lanvins collection was as always so sophisticated but there were some twists in there like some unusual draping techniques. However, Lanvin makes soft look structured which is a true talent. When I'm a bit older and more professional, I'd love to be able to wear a Lanvin look though I doubt it would suit me very well at the moment. Lanvin presents the ideal of the woman everyone aspires to be. Shes stylish, shes elegant but she has a sense of mystery and edge.

Chistian Dior deserves a mention. I appreciate what Dior does, though its not my aesthetic at all. Dior is still going after so long and still producing beautiful things. Dior can get away with doing the same things in different ways and it not being boring, just because its so classic and recognised. This was a soft collection; very Wisteria Lane or Stepford with a few surprises of shape in there for evening looks.

Finally, Yohji Yamamoto is a severely interesting designer. He is another that we were urged to study at Uni and I've been to his exhibition at the V&A too. Similar to Margiela, we see Masucline Vs Feminine. Differently, Yohji Yamamoto alludes more to couture as an influence and completely re invents the rules of it.