Paris Fashion Week: Sunday 2nd October

Just a quick post today as I'm in a mad rush at work. The only reason I have time out to do this is cos the I'm waiting for the designer to finish her meeting so we can finish of this jeans design.

Anyway, there wasn't a great deal of shows yesterday but I think the best of the day had to be Givenchy.
Givenchy was all about sharp, classic tailoring with a bit of a twist.

As you may have noticed, Gisele Bundchen made a surprise appearance in the show! This collection 

managed to have a sassiness and edginess but still be very clean cut at the same time. It was like the working womans wardrobe, making her look bold, strong and independent.

It was questioned to whether John Galliano could live up to standards with his current departure. Instead, Bill Gaytten was left in charge as creative director and it seems as he held up well under the circumstances. Does it have Gallianos complete fantastical imagination? Perhaps not. But there are some gorgeous floaty, yet structured designs in there and it still paints a fairytale paradise with a twist that we expect from Galliano. He creates a sense of surrealism which we admire. 

Paris Fashion Week: Saturday 1st October

I want to talk about two designers from Saturday, with my favourite being Haider Ackermann. What a mind blowing collection. Themes; metallics, androgyny, drapery.

There really were some beautiful colour schemes going on in this collection. I'd never have though aqua and emerald green would look so good together. With feminine draping, Ackermann still builds on a masculine personna but makes it glamourous rock and roll. I love the asymmetrical shapes that have been incorporated into this collection to give it a more deconstructed look. I don't know what else to say really. It was the perfect collection. There were pieces that everyone could appreciate and admire.

Jean Paul Gaultier on the other hand, seemed to be nodding to all his past collections in this one and combining them into one mega performance. There were the sheer tattooed body suits, pinstripes, glamour- there wasn't really an apparent theme here. Of course his talents still shined through though and somehow, it still looked cohesive.

Paris Fashion Week: Friday 30th September

Thank God the Maison Martin Margiela true aesthetic is back. I think when he left, and it was taken over, the company basically just lost the plot. They thought 'Margiela has always been a strange one, lets go mental'. And hence, recent collections have been unsatisfyingly odd. Having studied Margiela and designed based on his work in a project, I had to look at his collections in detail. This Spring/Summer 12 collections alludes to his true talent. It plays with androgyny and manipulating masculine shapes for the female form. It presents some really great pieces, true to his roots of deconstruction.

Lanvins collection was as always so sophisticated but there were some twists in there like some unusual draping techniques. However, Lanvin makes soft look structured which is a true talent. When I'm a bit older and more professional, I'd love to be able to wear a Lanvin look though I doubt it would suit me very well at the moment. Lanvin presents the ideal of the woman everyone aspires to be. Shes stylish, shes elegant but she has a sense of mystery and edge.

Chistian Dior deserves a mention. I appreciate what Dior does, though its not my aesthetic at all. Dior is still going after so long and still producing beautiful things. Dior can get away with doing the same things in different ways and it not being boring, just because its so classic and recognised. This was a soft collection; very Wisteria Lane or Stepford with a few surprises of shape in there for evening looks.

Finally, Yohji Yamamoto is a severely interesting designer. He is another that we were urged to study at Uni and I've been to his exhibition at the V&A too. Similar to Margiela, we see Masucline Vs Feminine. Differently, Yohji Yamamoto alludes more to couture as an influence and completely re invents the rules of it.

Paris Fashion Week: Thursday 29th September

The show that they were all raving about on Thursday in Paris was the Balenciaga show. I think this was because it was pretty much the most unexpected collection ever. There seemed to be a mass array of bright blocky prints, unusual structures and a sporty influence. The first time I looked at this collection, I wasn't that amazed but looking back on it, you can clearly see the talent. A good designer is versatile and shocks you everytime with Balenciaga definitely managed to achieve

One of my favourites of the day was Balmain. It was the contrast between casuals and evening wear that made it so interesting. Shirts would be teamed with gold metallic skirts or elaborate European Renaissance inspired designs on tops with skinny high waisted leather trousers. To me, this made it more sassy and edgy. I couldn't really fault it.

Rick Owens wasn't much different to how Rick Owens usually is but I've always admired him. He manages to make simple, minimalistic designs so much more interesting by adding small details like unusual collar draping, or a strange angled sleeve on leather. Anyone can wear Rick Owens and feel relaxed and confident. I like how a splash of burnt orange was added into the middle of this black and white collection.

Paris Fashion Week: Wednesday 28th September

Lots of great shows from yesterday, making it difficult to narrow it down. One of my favourite designers, Mr Thierry Mugler had his show yesterday and it was just as interesting as always.  Mugler has this ability to come up with some great design shapes that are dark and edgy. But at the same time, his clothes are still feminine. The look, I thought, was like this incredible desert warrior. Its unfortunate that Mugler isn't too everyones taste but I'll always continue to be impressed I hope.

Nicholas Andreas Taralis is a designer I haven't actually heard of but I enjoyed viewing the collection.

There was some interesting ways of draping in this collection and unusual seams giving a subtle asymmetrical look to certain pieces.

Then there was Gareth Pugh. Now, if there ever was a shocking and outrageous designer, it is him. You just never know what oddness he is going to come up with and though some of it can be quite weird to say the least, you have to appreciate someone who takes a risk and isn't afraid to go all out.

A lot of sharp and boxy shapes were used; large box like collars, sharp edges of jackets and mesh materials. Of course trademark colours of black, grey and white were used a lot.

Paris Fashion Week: Tuesday 27th September

Paris fashion week has commenced and I think its going to be something spectacular! There's so much great style in Paris; all you have to do is look around and think of the culture. Some of the best films have been set there and TV shows like Gossip Girl. I went there for my 20th Birthday this year and fell in love with it.

Paris is the fashion week that is allowed to get away with injecting the inner sex kitten into collections without it being viewed as shocking. And thats exactly what Anthony Vaccarello did. Using black as a foundation colour, little black dresses were made with asymmetrical shapes and large cut outs. You definitely have to be a slim woman to wear the pieces here though there were some of more commercial value in there.

Commuuns collection  this year also showed a maturity. It was crisp and sharp tailored shapes that were used and provided us with a very commercial collection that could suit every woman. You can see the sharpness in the pieces even though I have chosen to show some of those with more drape. Monotonal colours here were key.

I'm excited to see what comes next from Paris Fashion week. With a huge array of designers today, it should be a unique performance.