Paris Fashion Week: Tuesday 4th October

In my opinion, this day was the best so far of Paris Fashion week. I found it so hard to pick a favourite from the collections I saw, because they were also so phenomenal. Surprisingly, I think my all time fave of the day wasactually Valentino. I think I am now falling in love with Valentino clothes.

If I could afford to , this is exactly how I would dress! Its the aesthetic I love with the Vintage-y, antique style looking lace - very Mary-Kate Olsen or Alexa Chung. You can just imagine these being translated on the highstreet through brands like Topshop. There was definitely a folk feeling to the collection but it wasn't too much of a grand statement. Most of the pieces were evening wear and reserved for special occasions.

Everything about Chanel was stunning. Lagerfeld was inspired by an underwater dream world, inspired by under ocean architecture and shapes from shells to plant life. Chanels signature style was still there but Karl Lagerfeld was careful not to over do tradition and create something completely new. There was a lot of ruffles, fabric manipulation to create interesting shapes and yet its pastel colour scheme kept it so serene.

Paco `Rabanne has been amazing ever since the sixties when he was one of the only designers to start using materials like metal in his collection. His aim was to create a futuristic fantasy and thats exactly what he is still doing. Metallic materials were key to create a contemporary low key warrior woman. The collection was strong and bold, innovative and masterful.

Sara Burton at Alexander McQueen was too inspired by Oceanic life, but rather than a Prospero like dream that Chanel encompassed the analogy was explored in a different way. As well as being inspired by shells and coral, oil slicks were referenced, oysters and jellyfish. In short, Chanel was serene, and McQueen was about the drama. Sarah Burton continues to enhance the McQueen name and live up to reputation but she injects her own personal taste into it. It works.

Paris Fashion Week: Monday 3rd October

A lot of big designers show cased yesterday, including Stella McCartney and Vanessa Bruno. To me, however,
it was all about Chloe, Ungaro and Yves.

Chloe was very light and feminine, but as Style.com says there was a bit boyish appeal about it too. The whole feel of it was airy, if it can be described that way. There was a lot of white, subtle colours like blush pink and then these sudden splashes of bold colour, but it all worked very well. I noticed a lot of knee length looks creeping in but because they're so drapey and light, it doesn't seem as conservative.

Emanuel Ungaro had quite a mix of prints, bold colours and glitz and glamour. Some looks were more exotic and party-esque whereas others were more smart and refined. Then we went as far as to have over the top
glamour. I think thats good in a collection though, to have a lot of options. Ungaro gives the options of bright printed shifts or shirts and trousers. My favourite piece is the top dress shown!

Yves St Laurent, well, what can you say. The company is a fantastic design house and has some really sleek pieces. There not always the most exciting of pieces, but they are stylish and elegant and definitely wearable.

Paris Fashion Week: Sunday 2nd October

Just a quick post today as I'm in a mad rush at work. The only reason I have time out to do this is cos the I'm waiting for the designer to finish her meeting so we can finish of this jeans design.

Anyway, there wasn't a great deal of shows yesterday but I think the best of the day had to be Givenchy.
Givenchy was all about sharp, classic tailoring with a bit of a twist.

As you may have noticed, Gisele Bundchen made a surprise appearance in the show! This collection 

managed to have a sassiness and edginess but still be very clean cut at the same time. It was like the working womans wardrobe, making her look bold, strong and independent.

It was questioned to whether John Galliano could live up to standards with his current departure. Instead, Bill Gaytten was left in charge as creative director and it seems as he held up well under the circumstances. Does it have Gallianos complete fantastical imagination? Perhaps not. But there are some gorgeous floaty, yet structured designs in there and it still paints a fairytale paradise with a twist that we expect from Galliano. He creates a sense of surrealism which we admire. 

Paris Fashion Week: Saturday 1st October

I want to talk about two designers from Saturday, with my favourite being Haider Ackermann. What a mind blowing collection. Themes; metallics, androgyny, drapery.

There really were some beautiful colour schemes going on in this collection. I'd never have though aqua and emerald green would look so good together. With feminine draping, Ackermann still builds on a masculine personna but makes it glamourous rock and roll. I love the asymmetrical shapes that have been incorporated into this collection to give it a more deconstructed look. I don't know what else to say really. It was the perfect collection. There were pieces that everyone could appreciate and admire.

Jean Paul Gaultier on the other hand, seemed to be nodding to all his past collections in this one and combining them into one mega performance. There were the sheer tattooed body suits, pinstripes, glamour- there wasn't really an apparent theme here. Of course his talents still shined through though and somehow, it still looked cohesive.

Paris Fashion Week: Friday 30th September

Thank God the Maison Martin Margiela true aesthetic is back. I think when he left, and it was taken over, the company basically just lost the plot. They thought 'Margiela has always been a strange one, lets go mental'. And hence, recent collections have been unsatisfyingly odd. Having studied Margiela and designed based on his work in a project, I had to look at his collections in detail. This Spring/Summer 12 collections alludes to his true talent. It plays with androgyny and manipulating masculine shapes for the female form. It presents some really great pieces, true to his roots of deconstruction.

Lanvins collection was as always so sophisticated but there were some twists in there like some unusual draping techniques. However, Lanvin makes soft look structured which is a true talent. When I'm a bit older and more professional, I'd love to be able to wear a Lanvin look though I doubt it would suit me very well at the moment. Lanvin presents the ideal of the woman everyone aspires to be. Shes stylish, shes elegant but she has a sense of mystery and edge.

Chistian Dior deserves a mention. I appreciate what Dior does, though its not my aesthetic at all. Dior is still going after so long and still producing beautiful things. Dior can get away with doing the same things in different ways and it not being boring, just because its so classic and recognised. This was a soft collection; very Wisteria Lane or Stepford with a few surprises of shape in there for evening looks.

Finally, Yohji Yamamoto is a severely interesting designer. He is another that we were urged to study at Uni and I've been to his exhibition at the V&A too. Similar to Margiela, we see Masucline Vs Feminine. Differently, Yohji Yamamoto alludes more to couture as an influence and completely re invents the rules of it.

Paris Fashion Week: Thursday 29th September

The show that they were all raving about on Thursday in Paris was the Balenciaga show. I think this was because it was pretty much the most unexpected collection ever. There seemed to be a mass array of bright blocky prints, unusual structures and a sporty influence. The first time I looked at this collection, I wasn't that amazed but looking back on it, you can clearly see the talent. A good designer is versatile and shocks you everytime with Balenciaga definitely managed to achieve

One of my favourites of the day was Balmain. It was the contrast between casuals and evening wear that made it so interesting. Shirts would be teamed with gold metallic skirts or elaborate European Renaissance inspired designs on tops with skinny high waisted leather trousers. To me, this made it more sassy and edgy. I couldn't really fault it.

Rick Owens wasn't much different to how Rick Owens usually is but I've always admired him. He manages to make simple, minimalistic designs so much more interesting by adding small details like unusual collar draping, or a strange angled sleeve on leather. Anyone can wear Rick Owens and feel relaxed and confident. I like how a splash of burnt orange was added into the middle of this black and white collection.